Attention to Detail: Professional Detailing Tips

We trust that you will enjoy your invisible paint protection product. It is designed to prevent the premature destruction of your automobile’s delicate and valuable paintwork as well as the head/fog lights. Properly maintained, it has proven itself to be trouble free.

WHAT TO EXPECT IMMEDIATELY AFTER INSTALLATION:

Immediately after installation, there may be a small amount of setting solution residue remaining under the film – THIS IS NORMAL and IT WILL DISSIPATE within a short time. DO NOT press on the area with the solution. Very similar to the temporary blemishes found on window tint application, these visual annoyances will clear up.
Minor variations observed in the material itself will also clear up after time and exposure to the elements. Some cosmetic imperfections, often referred to as “disturbed adhesive”, are unavoidable and may make themselves evident as a result of the installation technique necessary to apply the film.
Your film has been waxed with a special sealant prior to installation. No immediate waxing is required.

CARE (after 72 hours):

You can wash your car as you would normally (hand washing is recommended). Take care to wash/dry parallel to the film edges.
Wax the film at the same time as the rest of the car (every 3-4 months).
The use of high-speed rotary buffers or other abrasive cleaning methods are NOT recommended for the film.
Never apply pressure to a film protected surface.
When waxing/polishing, ALWAYS overlap the film edge with a ¼” painters masking tape. This will prevent any wax build-up on the film edge. If the film becomes scratched or marred, reconditioning by a professional is recommended.

www.detailingdynamics.com 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962)

Questioning the Paint

2004-12-29T15:57:00.000-08:00

As we move into the holiday season and the end of the calendar year, there will be an onslaught of year-end deals on new and used cars. With this surge, more owners-to-be should be asking questions regarding whether the car they are considering to purchase is completely original… or has part of it (or the entire car for that matter) been repainted? Let me start by saying just because some part of a pre-owned car has been refinished, it's not the end of the world. A door may have been keyed and re-sprayed, so no big deal. But in a worse case scenario, the car may have been in a serious accident.

Knowing whether any repainting was done is a good start in discovering a car's history. However, don't assume that only used cars get repainted. I've seen more than my share of brand new cars that have had panels repainted directly from the factory. It's a long trip from the manufacturing plant to the showroom, and accidents do happen. However, if you are paying for a brand new car, I believe you deserve one; and if any part of it has been repainted, you should be given some sort of consideration for it.

Now that we know why, let's discuss how we can determine if a car has had aftermarket paintwork. Although I've seen a few repaints that were close to indiscernible from the original, in most cases, there are certain visual clues to look for:

Color Mismatch
Most noticeable on reds and colors with pearl effect in them. It's very challenging to match the right amount of pearl/metallic flake to add to paint and have it lay down right. The lights that provide the toughest visual test for this are metal halides (usually at gas stations and hospital parking lots).

Orange Peel Mismatch
This is a mottled look on a paint's surface, like the texture of the skin of an orange. Remember that there is orange peel in the OEM paint. Look for a difference in the orange peel between adjacent panels.

Overspray
The most common giveaway of a repaint is caused by the improper masking of adjacent panels and back-taping of crevices. A surface of overspray will feel rough. Especially check doorjambs, glass, tires, wheel wells and other crevices. If the overspray is clearcoat, there is going to be no color but just a rough finish. So don't be afraid to feel the paint also.

Paint on Rubber Trim, Emblems or Door Handles
This is the second most common clue to repainting. It occurs when rubber trim and emblems (i.e. the Porsche "Carrera", Turbo" emblem on a 911 engine cover or a factory emblem) are not removed, but rather taped. Another sign of a possible repaint is misalignment or mislocation of the Porsche Carerra, Turbo, 968, or other factory emblems, etc.

Paint Thickness
Unless all paint was removed prior to repainting (it is seldom), paint thickness is obviously going to increase. You need a paint thickness gauge to check (this will also detect any body filler). The thickness of OEM primer, plus paint, plus clearcoat is usually four to five mils (0.004 to 0.005 inches). If you're unsure what thickness your car should be, check on another car of your model.

Wet Sanding and Buffing Marks
Body shops may have to sand out dirt specs or runs in the paint; then use a high speed buffer and usually wool pads to buff out their work. These marks should especially set off an alarm if they are observed on one panel on a brand new car.

Improper Taping
This is usually evident when the painter just wanted to paint the top of the panel for the sake of laziness. Let's say he painted the door, in that case he wouldn't paint the portion of the door in the door jamb. Always run your fingers around the edge of a suspect panel. It should be smooth.

Just realize that these characteristics are only as evident as the expertise of the person looking for them. If possible, put the car in question on a lift and look at the car from the bottom (or just lay on the ground). If you haven't developed an eye for seeing these imperfections, invite along someone who has. Even if you have to compensate a professional for the trip, it's worth it. It may save you a LOT more in the long run. Remember, just because you didn't see a repainted panel, doesn't mean the future buyer of your car won't. I even have one occurrence with a customer who leased a new Mercedes with the bumper already repainted and was willing to live with it; but when he returned the car at the end of the lease the dealership wanted to charge him for the repainted bumper. Obviously he didn't lease another car from them.

As always, should you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962) or email me at tech@detailingdynamics.com. May the wind be always at your back and may you achieve your pursuit of detailing perfection!

Caring for the Tires and Exterior Rubber

2004-12-29T15:49:00.000-08:00

We all know how much tires and exterior trim that have that satin glow and are deep black in color add to the visual impact of our cars. However the proper techniques and products evade most of us. We've all seen tires that look like a glazed doughnut and paint streaked with the dressing coming off the moldings. And how many of you wish your dressing actually lasted longer than a week? The other factor in the equation is the preservation of the rubber itself.

Left alone, tires and other exterior rubber will fade, crack and eventually lose their mechanical properties through Mother Nature. The first environmental enemy of rubber is exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) light. UV attacks rubber through a process called photo-degradation (similar to the way UV light oxidizes paint). The second enemy degrading tires and other synthetic rubber parts is ozone, a colorless gas that is part of the air we breathe. When ozone combines with UV light, a reaction occurs that attacks the rubber polymers. Add environmental pollutants into the equation, and we have a problem; "dry rot". Dry rot is a million dollar concern for RV, boat trailer and classic car owners that are parked for extended periods (I'm sure you've seen RV's parked with their tires covered).

Early damage may be seen as a general fading of the black color and eventual cracking of the tire sidewall. To protect against this environmental damage, manufacturers add a stabilizer molecule called a "competitive absorber" to the tire polymer. It works by capturing and absorbing UV radiation and converting it into heat to be dissipated. All tire manufacturers have been using the same competitive absorber, carbon black (specially structured particles of carbon), since 1904. Carbon black is a reinforcing filler that is highly resistant to abrasion. It is made from oil and is the reason tires are black. While tires could be made in designer colors (actually, rubber in its natural states is light grey in color), for various reasons including consumer rejection, they are not common. Too bad, because I remember going to a Porsche dealership when I was still in high school and telling the salesman that when I finally "made it" and bought my yellow 911, I would like forest green tires as an option. I still remember the look he gave me, priceless.

The competitive absorbers are sacrificial, meaning eventually they get used up. As carbon black loses its ability to perform, the rubber turns gray. This is one reason that black tires discolor as they age. To further protect tires, manufacturers add waxes and polymers into the tire compound; this blend retards the ozone from attacking the rubber and extends the time before the tire starts to surface crack over a wide range of temperatures. It's no surprise that caustic wheel cleaners remove this protective coating, but an amazing number of rubber dressings also increase rubber deterioration. During a sidewall inspection, manufacturers actually look for damage caused by these types of dressings. Tires flex when in motion, causing the wax molecules to migrate toward the surface. This forms a protective barrier between the air and the tire polymer. A white powder-like coating forms on the rubber surface. This is called "blooming". When tires are parked for extended periods, blooming does not occur and ozone starts attacking the tire polymer. With UV light and ozone working in concert, the degradation is accelerated resulting in drying, discoloration and cracking.

In addition to nature attacking the tires and rubber trim, man has developed his own way to add to that: Rubber/Vinyl Dressings. While the intended purpose for these chemicals was to protect the rubber as well as add competitive absorbers, many of today's dressings do nothing more than provide a short term greasy shine (they are usually clear and greasy similar to baby oil). They are usually a mix of kerosene/mineral spirits and dimethal silicone oil. These petroleum distillates act to strip away the protective waxes from the tires and not only do nothing to protect the surface, but actually degrade it. Dressings come in two flavors, solvent based and water based. As a rule of thumb, solvent based dressings last longer, but the new generation of water based dressing have durability approaching those of the solvent based. If you choose a solvent based dressing, choose one with a highly refined grade mineral spirit; this allows it to dry quickly before it can attack the protective waxes and polymers. Also if choosing a dressing with silicone content, make sure that the dressing contains "good" silicone (of the amino or siloxane functional family). These are "non-migratory" or "dry". And finally, make sure the dressing you choose does not contain formaldehyde (yes, as in funeral home).

Now let's look at how we can maintain our tires and trim. The first step to stabilize the compound and reclaim the original tire luster is a thorough tire cleaning. Select a non-acid ("basic" pH >7.0) wheel cleaner or a natural citrus-based degreaser. Also, use a soft, flexible wheel brush with natural tampico bristles (in case it comes in contact with the wheel surface) to get the full effectiveness of these cleaners. By the way, if you've just mounted new tires on your car, you must first remove the mold release agent or else your dressing won't absorb (this leads to short durability and splotchiness of the dressing). The mold release agent is similar to the wax on wax paper and must be dissolved with a solvent based cleaner followed by a "basic" wheel cleaner or degreaser. Repeat the procedure until the tires are squeaky clean.

The second step to restore the natural luster is the application of a high quality rubber dressing containing UV stabilizers which supplement the UV-protection action in the carbon black. Although exterior rubber requires a very durable dressing, it must not jeopardize the integrity of the compound. In our shop, we use different treatments for the tires as opposed to the rubber trim, we recommend the DyNA Concours Tire Treatment™ for your tires which has all the protective attributes described. Usually, the price of a dressing gives a hint of the quality of the dressing. The tires should have a satin sheen to them when dressed. Also, the dressing should not be slopped on as they do at the car wash with a paint brush so as to sling off all over your car's paint and the poor guy behind you. I can't tell you the numerous times I have gotten a glob of some greasy dressing all over my pants while judging PCA Concours events (needless to say those cars didn't win - I deducted 2 points consisting of ½ point for the excess dressing and 1½ points for the pants). I recommend applying the dressing with a foam applicator and storing the applicator in a Zip-Lock bag for future use.

On a related note, all of the modern cars with flexible bumper covers and side moldings require a "flex agent" added to the paint to give it flexibility. However, this flex agent causes the painted parts to be more porous. This porosity leads to the absorption of any of the sling-off of low-grade petroleum oil dressings which leads to black stains that are impossible to remove. Even repainting these parts is impossible and they must be replaced. I know for a fact that Cadillac had this issue some time ago and now specify in their manual that they are not liable for that kind of damage. I'm sure other car manufacturers have the same policy.

As always, should you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962) or email me at tech@detailingdynamics.com. May the wind be always at your back and may you achieve your pursuit of detailing perfection!

Detailing FAQs

2004-12-29T15:20:00.000-08:00

Post your Questions on exterior, interior, engine detailing and paint reconditioning here:

Washing Your Car

2004-12-29T14:29:00.000-08:00

We've cleaned our wheels and now we move to the next step of washing your car. You'd be surprised at how well you can preserve your car's finish just by washing it properly. On the other hand, improper washing can dull, deteriorate and scratch you car's paint.

First, we need to choose an appropriate car wash shampoo. Most of the over-the-counter soaps to stay away from contain solvents, sodium, or harsh detergents that will erode the wax. Dishwashing and laundry detergents are inappropriate because of their high alkaline content (I still have people insisting that it's ok to wash their car with Dawn every week. My reply to that is "Would you wash your dishes with car wash?). The finest shampoos are biodegradable, pH balanced, and will not strip your car's wax nor dry its vinyl and rubber. Some of the better shampoos also contain natural oils to reduce the possibility of minute scratches by suspending small particles above the surface and water softeners to prevent those dreaded water spots. Even microscopic dust particles take on the characteristics of sandpaper when rubbed across your car. Realizing this, by the way, should dispel the old-timer belief that it is best to wash using only plain water (in the "old days" some hot rodders put a few drops of vegetable oil in the car wash to give it lubricity). A quick way to test the lubricity of a shampoo is to rub a small amount of it between your fingers - it should feel very slippery. When we were formulating our exclusive DyNA Paintwork Shampoo™ (see Fig. 1), we tested it under the strictest conditions - back then we were offering mobile detailing services and were washing black cars in the high noon August sun. It was then that we perfected the perfect blend of lubricants and water softeners.

(Fig. 1)

Second, we need to choose the correct washing accessories; the choice of which is just as important as selecting the right shampoo. Dust and dirt particles become embedded in synthetic sponges and wash mitts. This grime buildup eventually causes serious surface scratches that are often blamed on other sources. We strongly suggest that you use (in order of preference) only the highest quality natural sea "wool" grade sponge, genuine sheepskin mitt (not the one with polyester - to check if it's genuine sheepskin just turn the mitt inside out and it should be leather) or 100% chenille cotton mitts (see Fig. 2, 3 and 4 respectively). When using a natural sponge, use the softer flat side for your paint while the curved side can be used for glass.

(Fig. 2, 3 and 4)

Third, we need to employ the correct procedure:

If possible, always wash your car in the shade.
Rinse the surface very thoroughly before shampooing to remove as much dirt off the paint as possible before touching the car (and please don't rush this critical step). If you have a pressure washer it will come in very handy for this purpose (just make sure to not use one with more than 1,250 psi). This step will dramatically decrease the amount of spider webbing your paint will develop from washing as time goes on.
Also always work from the top down.
You are better off using too little soap than too much, which will leave a residue if not rinsed off completely.
Use lots of water and leave the dirtiest parts of the car, the front bumper and behind the wheels, for last.
When washing a panel, load the sponge with shampoo and squeeze it out over the panel. Then gently wash with no downward pressure in straight lines (no "Karate Kid" wax on, wax off motion here).
Remember never to press or try to rub something out when washing your car. When the paint is wet you can't see if you're scratching it in any way until you dry your car and have a heart attack seeing what you've just done. Remember to let the chemical do the work. If the shampoo doesn't remove something, use the proper chemical later, but don't try to make the car wash shampoo do a task it wasn't designed to do.
Use at least two (2) sponges/mitts - one for the tops and another one for the dirtier bottoms. In our shop we actually use three (3) different sponges/mitts. In addition, if you want to go a little nuts, use two (2) pales. Use a DyNA Pro Wash Bucket for the shampoo and a plain bucket filled with clean water. Before reloading your sponge with clean soap, rinse it in the water to prevent contaminating the shampoo with dirt off the car. This step will also decrease the spider webbing on your paint.
Contrary to popular opinion, we do not rinse each portion of the car when after shampooing it. Because if it's hot the water will begin to dry and we run the chance of developing water spots. But if the shampoo is on the paint, its water softening agents will prevent that.

Lastly, we need to dry the car. Make sure you hand-dry your car immediately after washing. Cod-oil-tanned chamois, synthetic chamois or the new DyNA Superior Drying MicroWeave™ Towel (which we prefer) are the best choices. These new MicroWeave™ towels are safe and will not leave streaks like other synthetic or natural chamois. If you own a drying chamois, you may certainly continue to use them but always make sure they are clean. Then use a window towel (we recommend a microSuede specifically made for windows) to finish your windows to prevent streaking and spotting. The secret to getting a "wow" car wash is to go over the paint with the DyNA Liquid Gloss™ or an equivalent instant detailer spray with a cotton microfiber to remove any remaining water marks and to bring out the shine. The Liquid Gloss™ also contains a solution of
our DyNA Brilliance™ paint sealant so it will prolong the protection of your paint and is great for in between waxing.

Summary of Steps:

Fill DyNA Pro Wash Bucket half way with clean water. (see Fig. 5)
(Fig. 5)

Add one to two capfuls of DyNA Paintwork Shampoo™ and stir. (see Fig. 6)
(Fig. 6)

Rinse entire automobile thoroughly with water. (see Fig. 7)
(Fig. 7)

Start washing from the top of the car by loading up the DyNA Natural Sea Sponge or DyNA
Sheepskin Wash Mitt with Shampoo and squeezing out over each panel. (For convertible rag tops, use a safe natural horsehair brush).
Gently wash in straight back and forth motion with no downward pressure. (see Fig. 8)
(Fig. 8)

Rinse the sponge/mitt in a separate pail of clean water after each panel, load sponge with Shampoo and repeat. (see Fig. 9)

(Fig. 9)

Rinse thoroughly with cold water and dry with a natural chamois, synthetic chamois or MicroWeave™drying towel.
For a stunning shine and added protection follow with Liquid Gloss™ spray.

Washing your car should be a pleasurable experience and done at least weekly for a regularly
driven car. Now here I go with some preaching. Customers always ask me to share the "one big secret" of how to keep their cars looking pristine. Well, hang on to your fuzzy dice; here it is: Do
not take your car to a car wash! I don't care if it's brushless, touchless or uses holy water. Don't do it! Many car washes use odorless ammonia or phosphate-based soaps with very hot recycled wash water. You not only risk swirls, spider webbing, scratches or chips on your car, but also it removes your wax. So, wash it yourself or employ a professional detailer you trust to hand wash it. If however you live in an urban area (such as Manhattan) and don't have a place to wash your car yourself and go to a hand carwash, at least take your own sponge and drying towel for them to use. This way they won't be scratching your car with someone else's dirt.

As always, should you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962) or email me at tech@detailingdynamics.com. May the wind be always at your back and may you achieve your pursuit of detailing perfection!

Cleaning the Wheels

2004-12-29T13:37:00.000-08:00

The first step of the detailing process is to clean the wheels since they are usually the dirtiest part of the car. They must be cleaned often because the heated dust particles from brake pads bombard the wheels and bake into the finish. If left on the wheel, a phenomenon known as “galvanic corrosion” sets in, which will eventually pit and destroy the wheel’s appearance. Just remember that a dirty wheel attracts dirt. So the best time to take care of your wheels is when they are new. I always recommend taking off new wheels and protecting them with a paint sealant to our detailing customers.

First and foremost, you must know what type of wheels you have. They could be OEM or aftermarket wheels with a painted (or just clear-coated), chromed, polished, anodized, powder coated or plastic covers (let’s hope not!) finish. Pretty much most of today’s OEM wheels are clear-coated with polyurethane enamel. The coating is very similar to the clear-coat on your paint except it is usually thicker. Its purpose is to protect the wheel and to make brake dust removal easier.

The next step is to choose an appropriate cleaner to do the job for your specific wheels. Unfortunately, in most cases car wash soaps and general-purpose cleaners are not strong enough to dissolve the bond between brake dust and wheel. There are two types of wheel cleaners: acid and non-acid (alkaline). Although we will use our own proprietary blends of cleaners in our DyNA Wheel Shampoo™, you can pick out an acceptable one at your local auto store or through a mail order house. A safe all-purpose wheel cleaner will have a pH of 8.5-9.5 (7.0 is neutral, while < align="center">
(fig. 1)

Now that we have the chemicals, tools and basic knowledge, let’s go through the steps you will be taking to clean your wheels:

1. Hose off the wheels and the wheel wells with a strong stream of cool water to wash off as much dirt and dust as possible (a pressure washer is useful, but with no more than 1200 psi), and more importantly, to cool off the wheel. Never apply the cleaner to a hot or dry wheel. (Note: If you have just returned from finding out how much horse-power that new exhaust added to your car and your brake discs are glowing from the braking, let them air cool first before hosing them off or you will risk cracking the wheel’s clear-coat). (See fig. 2).

(fig. 2)

2. Apply the wheel cleaner to one wheel at a time. Allow the cleaner to dwell, per the instructions, but do not let it dry. (See fig. 3)

(fig. 3)

3. Scrub the flat surface of the wheel using your wheel brush wet with water and get the bristles into as many recessed areas as possible. (See fig. 4)

(fig. 4)

4. Use the spoke brush wet with water to clean the deeply recessed areas of the wheel. Do not use a brush with an exposed metal tip; one sudden slip could permanently gouge the delicate clear-coat or polished metal. Rinse the wheel with clean water (See fig. 5) . If there is still brake dust in the recessed areas, it’s time to whip out that toothbrush.

(fig. 5)

5. If some road tar still remains, use a liquid bug and tar solvent. Allow it to dwell and then wipe off and buff with a soft clean towel or microfiber. Re-wash area with the wheel cleaner.

6. Now rotate the wheels 180 degrees and repeat the procedure.

7. Follow up with a light coat of synthetic paint sealant which will provide a sacrificial protective layer against the brake dust and make it easier to clean the wheels in the future. Similar to your car’s paint, you don’t need this step on every wheel wash but a mist of DyNA Liquid Gloss™ (or equivalent instant detailer with sealant in it) will prolong the protection in between waxing. Carnauba wax isn’t preferable since it will not last as long and will melt at high heat.

Congratulations! You now have clean wheels. I recommend you clean your wheels at least weekly and stay away from automatic carwashes. Most have hard silicon carbide rotating brushes to clean tires and white walls. These brushes, the accompanying corrosive chemicals and the tracks used to guide the vehicle can instantly cause permanent wheel damage. A high-quality car wash should always offer hand washing (that’s without the tracks). If this service is not available, locate a reliable detailer or do it yourself if you are comfortable with the procedure.

As always, should you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962) or email me at tech@detailingdynamics.com. May the wind be always at your back and may you achieve your pursuit of detailing perfection!

Care of the DyNA Concours MicroTerry™ or Natural Microfibers

2004-12-29T13:20:00.000-08:00

Always wash and dry the towel before it's first and subsequent use! During the manufacturing process the fabric has a tendency to become flat as it picks up contaminants from the air and machinery. There will also be a number of loose threads that, while they cause no harm, can be annoying the first time you use the towel.
We suggest washing them after every use!
The DyNA Concours MicroTerry™ is an exclusively soft, supple and absorbent 100% natural microfiber Terry Towel. It is easy to clean and with proper care will last a very long time.
To clean the towel simply wash it in your washing machine using warm or hot water. If you use hot water the temperature should not exceed 150°F.
Always wash your towels separately from other fabrics (even from synthetic microfibers). They have a tendency to pick up lint and other particles from other fabrics and the next time you use your towels this lint will transfer to the surface being cleaned, only making your job harder.
ONLY USE LIQUID DETERGENTS, never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are cleaning.
NEVER USE BLEACH OR FABRIC SOFTENERS! You simply don't need them. Bleach will damage any fine fabric and fabric softeners deposit a chemical coating on the fabric that you really don't want to transfer to your car's finish or windows.
Either air dry the towel on a clean line or in your clothes dryer using low heat. AVOID HIGH HEAT! High dryer temperatures won’t damage the towel but can reduce the towel's life span. Also, don't use those toss in fabric softener towels, all they do is deposit chemicals on the fabric that will transfer off to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.
If you wash your towels on a regular basis and don't let them get too dirty they will last much longer. As with any fine fabric dirt particles, grease, and other contaminants can cause the fibers to break down so regular cleaning will go a long way in preserving your towels.
The more the towel is cleaned the fluffier and softer it will get.
As you use the DyNA Concours MicroTerry™ you will notice that sometimes a thread will loosen or pull out here or there. This is normal for terrycloth and you should NEVER PULL AT THE LOOSE THREAD! Pulling the thread can cause the weave to come undone or stitching to unravel. Instead, simply trim the thread with a pair of sharp scissors to about 1/4 of an inch from the surface, don't cut too closely. Think of it as giving your towel a haircut from time to time.

Care of your Synthetic Microfibers

2004-12-29T13:13:00.000-08:00

Always wash and dry the towel before it's first and subsequent use!
The synthetic microfiber towels will trap dirt, wax and other particles from your automobile's surfaces so keeping them clean with proper care will help them last a very long time.
How do you know when it's time to wash them, when they start to streak.
To clean the towel simply wash it in your washing machine using warm or hot water. If you use hot water the temperature should not exceed 150°F.
Always wash your towels separately from other fabrics (cotton towels and natural microfibers). They have a tendency to pick up lint and other particles from other fabrics and the next time you use your towels this lint will transfer to the surface being cleaned, only making your job harder.
ONLY USE LIQUID DETERGENTS, never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are cleaning.
NEVER USE BLEACH OR FABRIC SOFTENERS! You simply don't need them. Bleach will damage any fine fabric and fabric softeners deposit a chemical coating on the fabric that you really don't want to transfer to your car's finish or windows.
Either air dry the towel on a clean line or in your clothes dryer using low heat. AVOID HIGH HEAT! High dryer temperatures won’t damage the towel but can reduce the towel's life span. Also, don't use those toss in fabric softener towels, all they do is deposit chemicals on the fabric that will transfer off to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.
If you wash your towels on a regular basis and don't let them get too dirty they will last much longer. As with any fine fabric dirt particles, grease, and other contaminants can cause the fibers to break down so regular cleaning will go a long way in preserving your towels. We suggest washing them after every use.

Detailing Back to Basics- DyNA Paint Reconditioning System

2004-12-29T11:54:00.000-08:00

Preparation/Cleaning
Fix/Restoration
Protection

Step 1: Preparation/Cleaning

1st task of detailing is to clean the wheels since they are usually the dirtiest part of the car. (See tip "Cleaning the Wheels")
• DyNA Wheel Shampoo™ or any non-acid (PH 8.5-9.5) wheel cleaner
– Follow instructions on the product you use
• Avoid using steel wool and acid wheel cleaners
2nd task- prepare/clean the paint
• You want to start your restoration process with clean paint/clearcoat- should squeak
• Start by removing the old wax, sealant, etc. by using Dawn, P21S or a non-acidic degreaser
– Between full details, you can wash with you favorite car wash or DyNA Paintwork Shampoo™

Step 2: Fix/Restoration- DyNA Paint Reconditioning System

DyNA Gloss Restorer™- Fine Compound and Polish
• Step 1 of 3 in the reconditioning of your automobile's
paintwork.
• New technology incorporating polishing media used in the
computer chip industry designed to permanently remove (not
hide) swirl marks, spider webs, surface scratches and scuffs off
your paint.
DyNA Gloss Refiner™- Polish and Pre-Cleaner
• Step 2 of 3 in the reconditioning of your automobile’s
paintwork.
• This paintwork cleaner will restore the optical clarity (remove
haziness) and bring out that "wow" in your paint. Contains no
fillers and is designed to permanently remove (not hide) swirl
marks, spider webs and fine surface scratches.
DyNA Ultimate Cleaner™- One Step Cleaning and Polishing Lotion Infused with Carnauba Wax
• For Dark colored cars, replace Step2: Gloss Refiner™ with the
Ultimate Cleaner™
• The best description of it would be a "troubleshooter". It’s a
creamy cleaner which removes oxidation, surface scratches,
spider webbing, water spots and especially bugs off paint or
any other non-porous surface. It works by chemical action
(rather than abrasively)
• Great for autocross and track events when you need to remove
tire marks, bugs and cone marks from your car instantly and
still have your car's paint protected by a coat of wax.

Step 3: Protection

DyNA Brilliance™- High Gloss Sealant/Wax
• Step 3 of 3 in the reconditioning of your automobile's
paintwork. This high-gloss sealant will give your paint that
incredible "wet look" and increased DOI (Distinction Of
Image) of a show car with the durability for daily driving.
DyNA Liquid Gloss™- Unique Blend of Gloss
Enhancers and Paint Protectors
• Instant Detailer for that added clarity and enhanced shine.
• Designed to be used right after washing your automobile or
after each of the paint reconditioning steps.
• Safe to use on any non-porous surface; great for paint, glass,
plastic convertible windows and interior wood/metal/carbon
fiber trim.

The Seven Biggest Mistakes People Make When Detailing their Car

2004-12-29T11:20:00.000-08:00

Using the wrong tools: I'm sure you've heard of "the right tool for the job" and detailing your car is no exception to the rule. For example, I see many people using the sponge/wash mitt you washed your car with to clean the wheels, instead of using a wheel brush; or using some old rag to remove wax off your paint instead of using a diaper/microfiber. These "shortcuts" not only affect the quality of your job, but will also cost you a lot of extra work later on. You ask how? Well, suppose that sponge you used on your wheels picked up some brake dust, which did not rinse out but then wound up scratching your hood the next time you washed your car. I can see you cringe by the way. How long would it take to polish that scratch out? Do you want to take that chance?
Not giving the chemicals enough time to work: This is called "dwell time." Many chemicals need time to work because their effectiveness is based on a chemical reaction, not a physical one (as in a compound). Some of the chemicals that fall into this category include tar removers (as well as other solvent based chemicals) and leather conditioners. How do you know how much time is enough? Read the directions (usually). Most often, the directions are accurate, but I have noticed that on some products the directions seem to have been written by a marketing or technical writer, rather than by someone who actually used them. This is another case where hurrying and taking off the chemical costs you more time in the end, because you have to reapply it again.
Not letting the chemical do the work: I've seen many people resort to using pressure, when the chemical they're using doesn't seem to work. For example, when they're washing their cars and the shampoo doesn't remove the spot, they press harder and harder on the sponge (probably scratching the paint) instead of realizing the shampoo was not made to remove that spot and maybe they should try a chemical that was. Remember that usually there is a correct chemical solution for every problem. If you don't know what that chemical is, you can inquire online at http://www.detailingdynamics.com/tech.html or call Detailing Dynamics at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962). But practicing on your exotic car isn't the wise thing to do.
Not using window towels on windows: The #1 problem most of the people seem to have is getting windows truly clean. And while the cleaner you use is important, it still won't work properly without using the proper towel. Trust me on this one! I know; you're saying that you use newspaper (by the way, ever since they switched to water based ink on newspapers, all it will do is dirty your hands), paper towels or expensive disposable wipes you purchased from that pretty catalog. I'm telling you that I've tried them all and come back to these DyNA Clarity Glass Towels or equivalent window microfiber suedes for only one reason; they work best. You want to have a set of window towels that are dedicated for that purpose only and nothing else. And make sure you wash them properly. (I describe how to do this in my website http://www.detailingdynamics.com/tip.html)
Using vinyl dressing on leather: One of the things that drives me absolutely nuts is the directions on vinyl dressings. They almost always say to use them on vinyl and leather. No, no, no! Think about it; have you seen any shiny cows walking around like they've been drinking ArmorAll®? This is one of those times when you should not follow the directions. Not only does the dressing make the leather shiny and slippery, but it also closes the pores in the leather. How the vinyl protectant manufacturers can get away with this amazes me. I've seen more than enough cars where ArmorAll® has been applied to leather seats and allowed to bake in the sun, thus ruining the leather beyond repair. I'm sure the manufacturers of the vinyl dressings know this, yet continue to include that in their directions in order to increase sales.
Listening to their neighbor/friend who details on the side: Now this is my personal favorite. Of all the six mistakes, this one is the most widespread. It seems that almost every other person I meet has a buddy who "details" (and is more than willing to share his vast arsenal of knowledge with you). But as one of my best customers (who is a dentist) said, "Just because you brush your teeth, it doesn't make you a dentist". I've seen people wash their car with a Brillo® pad because their neighbor Bob told them it would remove the road tar (well he was right, it did along with the clear coat) as well as other "Oops" maneuvers.
Getting advice from the internet chat rooms: This one I added recently due to the growing popularity of the internet. I now read the detailing chatrooms every chance I get; not for educational purposes, but for pure entertainment. I’ve previously heard it said that “The internet is the biggest source of misinformation” and in this case I must say it’s true. I especially enjoy reading the “professional” forums; after all these guys must know that they’re talking about. Ironically the top detailers in the country who I’ve had a chance to get to know over the years never contribute their knowledge to these chatrooms. I’ve found the advice on these forums to fall into (3) categories:
(1) The correct/best solution to the question or problem at hand.
(2) A mediocre/partial solution that although is not the best one will still not damage the car.
(3) A completely wrong solution that will not solve the problem and damage the car.

The problem in most cases is that you don’t know who is on the other side of the keyboard. I remember some time ago on one “Professional” chatroom there was one user who was very helpful answering every question posted and offering advice to everyone who had a challenge. This went on for about (2) months after which he posted “Just did my first paid detail”. My question is, what the heck was he doing for the previous months? Doing your mothers and uncle Tony’s car for free doesn’t qualify you to be a “Professional” detailer.

Well, there you go; a short list of lessons I have personally learned the hard way and hope you won't have to. As always, should you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at 1-866-DET-DyNA (1-866-338-3962) or email me at tech@detailingdynamics.com. May the wind be always at your back and may you achieve your pursuit of detailing perfection!